Landing Springs


thanks to advice from this site and much time put in on the vedder, i am finally getting lots of fish on. problem is can't land a spring. must have hooked into 30-40 of them this week and still have not landed one. have tried 20 lb leaders but still lose them. maybe i have to loosen the drag more. or play the fish longer (difficult cos others are waiting for you to get it over with). would appreciate advice from you experts out there


Al, I gotta say, is I hope you're not foul hooking them. I know of very few people who even hook A fish on 20 pound leader. Fish can see 10 pound leader, so I wonder how this is working, and all my friends who I fish with who catch a lot of fish by the mouth, dont even get 20 springs in a day. Anyways, a few things you can consider. What you should be using for Springs, is 20 pound mainline and 12-15 pound leader. Generally, I even get away when landing springs with 8 pound leader, but thats when I accidently hook one while fishing for coho. I'd move to 12-15 pound leader, size 2 hooks max. If the water is more silty, you can even get away with size 1, but generally thats it. Now, take into account your rod strength and what you're using. You should ideally have 20 pound Maxima ultragreen for your mainline and 12 pound or 15 pound ultragreen for leaders. This line has a lot of stretch and wont break for a long time. I've reefed on springs with 12 pound leader and NEVER EVER broken it. Next, you wanna take a look at your knots. Are they strong? are you lubritcating them with spit each time? is there twist in lines cuz you're not tying the knots properly (aka always pull the line through and dont just pull on the line to set the knot. ARe your hook knots tied proplerly (aka salmon spade end whip knots), etc, etc. Are your hooks sharp? do you file them after every fish? do you file them? are you setting them in the fish? these are all questions that you have to ask yourself. Before you can even consdier being worthy of a fish. Are you always maintaining tension on the fish? Some Springs will run you down river, and even with 50 pound leader, you're fucked, but most spring sI see will swim around, and jump and take you up river, side river etc, etc. and just try and hold their ground. Tension is key as tension tires the fish. Another thing, if you do hook fish by the mouth, they dont have a tendancy to run you down river like as if you hooked them in the water. I am not calling you a snagger, but still..you shouldn't have any problems landing them. Is your rod strong enough? Are you confident? you know. I need you to thikn about this Al, you can move to 20 pound leader, but it wont make any difference. Either way, your rod has to bend at a point, and yoru drag has to speel off line, or your rod will break, so 20 pound and even 15 pound leader is way too much. Anyways, I hope some of my questions may have helped you, but you shouldn't be having problems landing springs if all these questions are in order and answered in the way that will best suit you landing one. Have confidence in the strength of your line, especially with maxima, because its elasticity is really something else! Scott


Al, another trick after thinking about this all day, is when you're within the crowds of anglers, which is not where you should be, because crowds mean spooky fish, is walk down with your fish. If your fish is just holding in the current, if you walk below it while keeping tension on your line, what you can do is pull on it, or reef on it, and it will turn it off balance and then it will have to regain its balance and fight a new stretch of current. Also, with 20 pound leader, I think you think that big leader means the ability to reef on a big fish and reef it right in, Well often times you will become too confident, in your leader strength, and you will reef on it so hard, you will pull the hook right out of its mouth. Like I said, 12 pound leader is fine. If you're using maxima or a high stretch line, 12 pound is all you need. Like I said, guys get away with 8 pound leader, If you have a little anxiety there, then you will wanna play the fish longer, and thus you wont reef the hook out of its mouth. If you have sharp hooks and properly tied knots, and the right knots, you will be completely fine. Learn how to tie a Trilene Knot, and make sure your leader to hook knots are salmon loop knots, or technically its called a "spade end whip" knot. What I do is from my swivel to my leader line I tied a trilene knot, and from my hook to my leader, again I tie a salmon loop knot (for yarn). You shouldn't ever have to worry about line breaking, if everything is set up right and your drag is set at yoru rods fighting curve aka the spot where it will put a lot of tension on your fish, but at the same time not snap any leader, you'll be fine. Good luck, Scott Another tip I want to enlighten you to, you are your angler, Dont you DARE concern yourself with any other anglers but yourself, Screw anyoen who gets pissed off if you're fighting your fish in front of their fishing spot. If they dont reel in, and you lose yoru fish because of them, they will be getting the dirty looks, not you, guaranteed. Just dont be cawky about it and run down river screaming fish on fish on forcing everyone to reel in and you keep repeating it. Even when you're casting, dont look at anyone elses rod, float, or reel, but yours. You worry about you, and the fish on the end of your line will be taken care of.


scott. thanks for the input. i have not been snagging them. been using a very small bit of peach or light peach wool and its been working wonders. often times i get a bite on my first cast. this is something which i observed. even if there are others pounding the pool and you arrive and cast in something which is different from what they are using you can get a bite on the first cast. maybe its because you are offering something new on the menu!! anyways, its true what you said, most people use way too much wool. i've seen people using thumb sized wads of wool. i try to tell these people sometimes that they shud go smaller but usually they don't listen. anyway back to the problem. i am using a 10 1/2 foot rod and an ok baitcaster so shud be no problem there. my mainline is trilene 20 lb. and usually i use 14 lb leaders. its only after i lose a few then i switch to 20 lb maxima leaders. then i break off at the main line. someone told me that maxima chameleon is a better line. guess i will try that. as for knots, i don't think there is a problem there cos i don't see them come loose. i use a surgeons knot to tie the mainline to the swivel and i use my own knot to tie the leader to the hook. no problem there as well. and i use the surgeons knot again to tie the leader to the swivel. i think my main problem is technique. i've seen people land springs on 12 lb leaders and even 8 lb. i guess i tend to panic when they start to run and thumb the reel harder and lift the rod to try and stop the run. maybe i shud let them run a little longer. don't know. have no problem with chum though. anyway i am going to keep pounding and maybe one day i will land one. any further input from you wud be appreciated.


Whoever said move to Chameleon is a genius, that line will definitely improve your chances. What kind of Trilene is it though? Big Game is pretty good, I've never had problems with Big Game breaking,even at the knots. Try tying a clinch knot to your leaders, and an improved clinch knot or trilene knot to your swivel to mainline. Also, consider getting rid of your line, I figure it was on the shelf for a little long/exposed to too much light. If you leave line exposed to light too long, like extended periods of line, it will turn to chalk. No joke! Move to new Trilene Big game (green color) or Maxima ultragreen or Chameleon 20 pound tests obviously for your mainline. Peach is probably the most universal color for a few reasons 1) it imitates the exact color of most roes, especially white spring roe, which is roe that runs down the river a lot. 2)It also imitates a krill pattern. Krill are something that the salmon will also bite, why I dont know, but i figure as a clean up type deal to protect their young again. Remember,the smaller the better! Keep those hooks small too, size 4 for Coho, size 2 for Springs/Chum. If the water colors up slightly, you may even be able to get away moving up one notch with the hooks, but if its gin clear, dont even bother. As for thumbing the reel harder, dont do it too hard. Think of your rod as in terms of Car acceleration, it has optimal power at a certain bend point often. When it bends too much, your power is greatly decreased, until you move up to higher end rods which have actually quite good power arcs throughout though, but I'm not saying do this, you shouldn't need to!. So if your rod bends too much, it is just a bend over stick holding the fish. Whatever you do, just keep tension on the fish at all times. If it wants to run, let it run, but maintain some tension on it. Tire the sucker out! Dont be afraid to take some weight off your ass, to chase down that fish either! Another thing relating to wool colors, is you also have to adjust them to the light on the water. If theres sunlight on the water, or a change from shade to sunlight, consider changing to a darker peach or a lighter peach or a light or dark pink, as the sunlight influences the presetnation of your wool. As for Chums Al, you're hooking some pretty stale chums if you're landing them easily. If you hook into a fresh one, you wont be complaining about not being able to land a spring, you'll be bitching about how you lost your rod down river to a chum, because thats how much harder they fight! I might be going to the Squamish tommorrow, for some fresh chums. If you think a spring fights hard, wait til you see a chum of 3-5 pounds less mass. IN-•••••••-credible! Anyways Al...glad my tips helped you somewhat, remmeber keep em small, and you'll increase your chances greatly! All my fish hooked on Sunday were hooked on small small presentations of peach wool, and I managed to hook quite a few chums on light green! Same for Steelhead, but you can even go smaller! If you come to gin clear water and you're in a pool, try moving to 6 pound leader, size 6 hooks with small peach wool if you want coho! Good luck, Scott.


Al, another thing, move down to smaller leaders like I said earlier, and you'll be hooking even more fish than you are now. Remember, you can't complain about landing a fish, until you hook one! Thats where smaller leaders will come in handy! Good luck, Scott


i didnt say that i land chum easily. i have had pretty good sport with chum too. yes they do jump. but they do not jump 3-4 times in succession like springs do. also i find that chum accelerate more slowly than springs. but all in all, a chum on the line is better than nothing on. never got a coho yet. will try the light leader/smaller wool thing. are they mostly in faster shallower water? i don't think they would be in the holes with the spring and chum or wherever the bigger fish are moving thru.


Al, If you haven't landed any how do you know they were not foul hooked? The comment on a chinook jumping also indicates a fouled fish. A fair hooked spring normally stays deep and shakes his head and a fouled fish does an end over end splashy jump. I'm not saying that springs don't jump just that if they go airborne right away chances are you've fouled it. For once I agree with Scott. Those leaders are too heavy. 12lb should be adequate with 15 in some of the really fast water. A lot of rods can be broken with a 20lb leader. I also think it may be your knot. Try an improved clinch instead of a surgeon's. A bonus to using 12lb leader is that if you do happen to foul a fish, instead of trying to drag it in by the tail you can point the rod at the fish and break of. Afterall a hook and piece of wool is easy to retie and the pool is not busy for 20 min while you try to get that 25 cent hook back.


I find that i break alot of 2od eagle claw hooks is aybody else having that problem????


another thing. wool color/shades. is it lighter wool for lighter days, darker wool for darker days or is it the other way around? i just change them whenever the fishing slows down and sometimes that works. guess its the menu thing maybe? i alternate between peach, light peach, combination of both and light green. don't use pinks/reds very much at all


robert, i do not think that i am snagging them if i am landing chum fair and square most of the time. as for springs, most of the time i see the fish as i am trying to get it in but it is that second run usually that takes me off guard and breaks me off. anyway i am going to change lines and use new knots. that shud work.i think.


Al, the reason you are saying the Chums are very bullheaded and come accross river easier is beause you're hooking the stale ones, you hook a fresh one and your rod wont be owned by you anymore, but will be a simple dedication to the river gods. Bob, I haven't had problems breaking eagle claws at all, I just started using them recently, and if you are reefing on your fish way way too hard, you can break them, as with any hook, but generally on me they will bend slightly on a larger fish. By the way, you said 2od eagle claws, you shouldn't be using size 2/0 size 2 is more realistic! size 2/0 will put you amongst the szie of the snaggers on the river! And Al, try that improved clinch knot for tying your leaders to your swivel, and get rid of that mainline and get nice fresh spool of Maxima ultragreen. Do you know how to tie an improved clinch knot (or trilene knot as its called by some)?? that knot has a 95 percent breaking strength from the about 60-70 percent that a regular clinch knot has. It also holds on better to the swivel I find. Al, with shades, you want to think, with the light on the river, what will best imitate my core colour. Obviously there is a range of colour that imitates roe in the river. Its up to you to read the clarity and depth of the water with regards to light penetration and find this range in terms of shades of colours. Generally, with siltier water, you may want to up the size slighty of your prsentation, just slightly, nothing bigger. If the river is blown out, go to roe. If it is gin clear, a peach is fine, if its gin clear with a lot of sun, try a darker peach color, or maybe even some shades of pink like champagne. The light will help the yarn fall into the colour range so that it imitates roe effectively. I have a friend who knows the colour range so well, that he can look at the water and tell you exactly what colours to add to find this range, and this guy catches more fish than anyone I've ever seen! some days he'll be like "you need a little more cotton candy," etc, etc. Now, you have to do what it takes to make the fish bite. If it means moving all the way down to 6 pound leader to hook steelhead, by all means do it! You may not land as many fish due to break offs, but you will definitel hook more steelhead than anyone else, that in its own is an accomplishment.Generally with Springs and Chums, leader line isn't as big of an issue as it is with the coho and Steelhead because these fish are quite frankly psychotically aggresive! Thats how I ended up hooking 3 springs in 10 minutes! Scott


Bob i have been using eagle claw lazer sharps for years now, #2 and #4's, and have never had a problem with them untill last year,not so much with the 4's but the 2's. They have been breaking on me almost everytime i hit the bottom and snag up. They used to bend and that i can see, but i have been almost totally frustrated with these hooks almost too the point that i'am looking at other brands now.But who can afford those halibit hooks that chumthumper uses :) LOL Ross


Re: Breaking Eagle Claw hooks Yup! They do break. Sometimes. Depends on the batch. I have fished Eagle Claw hooks for a long time. The ones that usually break are the nickle plated hooks (the shiny silver coloured ones). They usually break at the point at which the barb is pinched. The solution? Buy the barbless hooks if you like the nickle plated type. Otherwise, buy the bronze hooks. I have never had one of the bronze hooks break on me. As for the size of the hook, I agree with Scott that a 2.0 (or two aught as some call them) is unnecessary). I use #4-#2 hooks almost exclusively, but for big springs I will sometimes go to a #1 (bigger mouth = wider jawbone = wider hook gap for better set). Either that, or ya gotta reef real hard to get a good hook set into the jawbone. I think most fish are lost because the hooker doesn't set the hook hard enough into the hookee. As for line, I hate Trilene. Hate it, hate it, hate it. I bought some once for my mainline (12 lb test) and I had 8lb Maxima for my leader. I lost 5 steelhead in a row in one afternoon because the Trilene kept breaking on me. I almost sued the company for false advertisement!!! Ya want good line, buy Maxima! Just check the line before you buy. Unspool about 15-20 feet and run it through your thumb and fore-finger. If you feel little bumps at regular intervals, the line is probably flawed. Don't buy it, just check another spool. Also check to see how long the line has been on the shelf. Like milk the more recent the better.


John W, yeah thats totally good advice, I buy the Bronze eagle claws just recently, just started buying them to save money on hooks also because they work, and I have yet to have one break on me. The Bronze ones bend quite well. I had a few nice chums and Springs bend some of my no.2's on sunday, but they didn't break. My buddy who uses the black eagle claws had some of his break just right after the barb. It appears Maxima is the ••••! I personally have two 110 yd spools of them that I use to tie leaders and I also keep in my vest. 1 spool of 12 pound ultragreen, and 1 spool of 8 pound ultragree. I"m also gonna buy some 6 pound ultragreen for steelhead season later on, when the steelhead tend to be of a smaller variety. Usually the early run Vedder Steelhead are quite large sized. I have a feeling this years early return of winter steelhead (aka the november/december fish) will be quite early and quite strong. Now, some advice I've learned,and I never believed this until I started doing it, is buy the barbed eagle claws and just debarb them with pliers. This is because the body of the hook where you break the barb is a great deal thicker, thus you can sharpen them more and more before they get too weak to even bother using on a fish. I dont sharpen my hooks often, just enough to keep them nice and sticky sharp, but this is a tip I think is worthwhile. Another thing, relating to tubing, use small bits of tubing. You will save tackle, believe me! I use about 1/3 of an inch of tubing to hold my weight in on my line, and everytime my weight does snag about 95 percent of the time, the weight is lost and I get my leaders back and my hooks and I check over the line, and usually theres nothing scratched or abraised, so I just throw on some more weight. Great tips from everyone I see! Anyways Al, I guess from what you can see in fishing, some things should be of the utmost quality in fishing such as fishing line, and somethings get the job done fine enough, such as eagle claw hooks. Good luck, Scott


Why don't you guys buy bulk fishing line. To buy a spool of fishing line is about double . When I respool my reel I save the line that I take off and use that for leader. To spool on about 175yds. of 12lb.Maxima costs about $8.00. For Chums try a bronze spin-glo with a very small hot orange piece of woll. Works like a dam. Marianne


Marianne thats some sensible advice about fishing line, only one problem. I've tryed that. What I did was get my reel spooled up with 15 pound ultragreen one time, Well I used it for quite a while, maybe about 10 good hard fishing trips on the Vedder I'd say, or a few more than that. Anyways, as you know when you're fishing hard you can lose a lot of mainline off your reel, so you end up having to respool to keep your casting potential up and your "spool confidence" in order with the amount of line you have on your spool. Anyways, so I'd pull all this line off my spool by hand and put it on an old spare spool and wind it up all neat by hand. Well when Spring season came around, I decided I might as well start using this old 15 pound mainline which I used for steelhead (i tend to use heavier mainline for steelhead, because I like to catch and release them), for spring leaders. Well the only problem was, after close examination was this line was quite twisted, and the twist greatly affected its strength obviously, especially knot strength in general. So is there any way to avoid that, I guess you working where you do (at a tackle shop right?) you must be able to use the old tackle line spool machine to get the line off your reel. Marianne, you being in the proximity of probably one of the best chum fisheries in the world, have a lot to stand behind in that tip of the bronze spin n glo/orange wool, but honestly, I think every region has its "quirks" for what works, and I know some people who swear by a colour one day for a certain fish, but I think with a fish like the Chum, there is quite a range of things that work, because they become fairly aggresive in the river in general, unlike what they're known for being in the ocean. For coho its a different story, they're so picky and finicky that you really have to work around, and springs can be picky some days, depending on the strain of springs, but down here we have the harrison transplant springs, which are I think by far the most aggresive and fastest growing (they're only a 4 year fish, and they grow as large as soem of your guys 6 or 7 year old strains of Springs up there), spring in the province. Anyways, you are definitely right, buy bulk and save money, and with this bulk line that you now own, store it in a safe non lighted place, or it will just end up as chalk in a year or two! Talk to you all later, Scott.


thanks for all the advice guys/gal. i think the problem was with my knots. the surgeons knot creates a stress point just after the knot and it always breaks off there. i used the trilene knot yesterday and landed a huge chum. fresh and jumped twice. didn't get a chance to try it out on a spring tho. river got quiet an hour after i got there (2.30 pm). however i will still get better lines as i see the importance now. also had an nickel eagle claw #2 break on me yesterday. stupid me fished with it for half an hour at least!! another thing, the spring/chum runs seem to be slowing down. it was at its peak last week 16-18 oct. is this the usual pattern, that the runs move up to a peak and then slows down or is the amount of fish moving in random? of course rain is a factor i guess.


Hi Al; Just read your post about your line breaking at the knot. Are you using Big Game Triline? Because with what I've seen on the river, that line is the worst for breaking at the knot. I know Scott you don't think so. It maybe o'ky for smaller fish but when you get into the big Salmon it just dosen't hold up. As for line being twisted. When you put on the line of a spool it is twisting. If you have someone hold the spool with a pencil in the hole, the line will come off the way it was put on, and it won't twist on you. But it is still cheaper for bulk. I find that chum salmon like anything thats flashy. I caught a 36lb. chum and it was a world record but stupid me cleaned at the river and lost the record, but I still have the record for line. I was using 10lb. leader and 12lb. main line. I still kick myself over that one. This year we had quite a few big chums weighed in. Here the two tackle stores have scales outside and you can bring your fish in have it weighed and your picture taken, then it gets put up on the brag board. This year the record Spring was 65lb. The lure that this fellow was using sold like crazy and the spot where he caught the fish you couldn't get near. We also have a tackle van that comes down to the river and sells gear. That way you don't have to leave your favourite fishing spot. And you also hear which is the best lure or what ever for the day from the tackle van. Marianne Bye Marianne


Scott Your problem with line twisting is because you are hand winding it and putting a twist in the line with every revolution. A good trick is to use a variable speed drill as a winder, and re-spool the line right off the reel onto an old spool. Use a 1/4" carriage bolt as a drill bit with a few washers and nuts to clamp down the spool and insert into the drill chuck. You will probably still find that the line is slightly crushed (from being at the bottom of your reel) and will also have a lot of tight coils from its memory, but it loses that memory fairly quickly and hasn't been too badly exposed to UV. I would trust Maxima UG for leaders with this method but not many others. Tight Lines


or you can just tie one end to a stop sign,walk to 'the end of the line'(sorry couldn't resist),untie,return to the stop sign,retie,and reel up,your line now inside out. pick a quiet neighbourhood.


Scott: I hear you have some cool way of storing pre-tied leaders while you're on the river - care to share the idea? dam


One of my fav. pastimes is taking an empty spool into the tackle shop and have them spin some bulk line onto that empty spool for your leader line, and as Marianne was saying its alot cheaper almost half the price.And since i'm supplying my 2 sons with all there leaders as well it does make sense!! Ross


Al, Glad to hear about the big chum, thought it might be the knot. As for a mainline, you might want to try Berkley Fireline. I really like it because it has no stretch, is abrasion resistant and very thin. You have to use a different knot, a palomar. I actually had a break off this weekend at the knot. That was the first one since I started using this line 3 years ago. Because there is no stretch you have to be ready for what ever the fish will do, but the bonus is that you can feel every head shake, much like you do with a fly rod. Stay away from spiderwire or anything else made of Spectra fibers. Also I've had a lot of success on my spinning gear and trolling gear with Berkley Trilene XT. This is much better than their other mono products. Hooks that break wouldn't last the day in my vest. I've had nothing but good luck with Gamakatsu. They are the best I've used. Sandy


Dam, I dont have any cool or special way of tying pretied leaders, its fairly basic, but effective, and it saves you a ton of time on the river, and when you're winter steelheading its blessing, because you only have to tie one knot instead of the customary 3 that you would tie if you didn't pretie your leaders. My friend Brent has an even better way of storing leaders, but his idea I can't explain. Basically you buy those blue leader boards. YOu can find them at berrys biat and tackle, bobs fishing and hunting, many tackle stores, although some dont have them. You pretie everything the night before. What one leader consists of is your hook, (debarbed, ready to go), your yarn all ready to go tied on the hook, your line, and then a swivel tied to it. and then some tubing put down on the leader. When you're on the river, put a float on yoru mainline, take a leader off your leader board and then whamo, you tie it on, pull the tubing up from the leader onto the swivel on the mainline and then boom, put some weight in, adjust your float and you're ready to go. If you snag/break off, just unravel another leader, and tie it on, and add weight and you're ready to fish again within 1 min. This really saves you time. Tying a leader on the river is just such a loss of fishing time, especially when you're steelheading. I mean, considering I get out to the Vedder on avg once a week, maybe twice, I try my best to take advantage of as much fishign time as possible, and if you figure it takes me about an hour to pretie 12 good leaders, think about how much time that is off of fishing on the river, and on a trip you can go from losing anywhere from 6 to 30 leaders in a day depending on where you are and how you adjust everything, so I think the idea of pretying your own leaders is a great one, and it has really helped me catch more fish than the guy beside me who is tying all day with cold fingers! Anyways, Al, I fought some incredibly tough fresh chums today. Just AWESOME. They fought me like you wouldn't believe, and I used 20 main, and 12 main, and I didn't break a leader ONCE! I'm telling you man 20 mainline ultragreen and 12 leaders ultragreen, and its all in your knots. Tie the right knots, and you wont have problems all day with breakage! Do yourself a favor, and stick with ultragreen or chameleon. I realize there is fireline out there, but until you have silicone carbide guides, and a newer model reel (newer model reels are better adjusted to cope with the non slip spools required for no stretch super lines), stick with maxima. The only advantage I can see Fireline having over a line like maxima is that it can hold more line on your spool, but how much line do you really need? seriously? People will say "but its sensitive, etc" but on a smaller river like the VEdder, where your line doesn't stray more than 20 yards for your rod, an elastic band is just as sensitive. When you're halibut fishing, yes, it could make a difference, but for playing the fish, ultragreen is wheres its at, and thats the plain truth. You think landing a spring is difficult, go try a fresh chum of 3-5 pounds less weight, and have a great time! Talk to you all later, Scott


looks like the stave has got lots of chum right now. would be a good change from the crowds at the vedder. or is it as crowded? how about the mysterious seymour? nobody seems to know much about that river. there are some nice places to fish along that river but nobody seems to fish there. i've tried looking for trout there before and all i caught were some 6-7 inch smolt (released of course). one question. how do you fish water that is murky? either muddy or glacial silt. or do you not bother to at all?


hi all as reading through this lot on loosing fish through hooks and line best knots for nylon / mono/fulro carbons is palamor knot or needle knot thats it main line to leaders 5 turn needles hooks well in uk kamasan b988 power carp are worth checking outas are maruta kinryu spade ends also owner spades or ssw or flb if you are having hooks coming back openned up then there not going home hi carbon content hooks snap when they open up anyone tried what in uk we call hair rigs????? bent hook's or stiff rigs for enlightenment pls msg me


ok let put this else where next topic mono stiff link's will try and explain ok guys bear with me ok what iwas trying to get at is most of the time due to fish you catch have very boney mouth structure hook's only really go home when you catch in the sissors of the jaws hence hooks openning out or even snapping due to high carbon content... don't wish to get to tech here so tight lines for now


JohnB, Never could get used to spade ends(for you Scott thats a hook with no eye,just a flattened end which you attach with a snell knot). I don't recall even seeing any in Canadian shops. As for those hooks no luck there either, must be just in the Euro market. I've used hair rigs in eastern Canada but out in BC the streams move with much more force, but it still might be useful. On most BC rivers we ledger bait or artificial bait. Believe it or not brightly coloured wool works wonders on salmon. You are right about the high carbon hooks, but I really doubt these are being broken by a fish. More likely a combo of fast water and dragging the bottom.


hi rob well you get my drift ihave fished the stamp few years ago and had springs to 35lbs have brother on the sunshine coast based around gisons landing so know all about wool just trying to give some diffrent ideas as i mainly fish for carp here in uk hope to come out for easter 2000 for some months


Scary how much talk there is about loosing fish, not catching them.


Chris, note, hooking fish, not catching them. I'd say hooking a fish by the mouth is a big accomplishment, and a large step for any angler. Making a Salmon bite, which it appears, Al is doing is something to be really proud of. You dont have a lot to fall behind, you still think that because Coho feed on certain colours in the ocean, that they will bite those colours in rivers as well. NO CHANCE! Keep reading their pal! Scott


What color feed do steelhead feed on in the ocean palsy? I am sure they feed on the same colors in the river. Better do your homework



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