Tackle Research
I regularly watch the board. I notice that a lot of the younger guys spend most of their time talking about tackle. I bet that Scott Kirkpatrick could tell you everything you wanted to know about Sage rods. Ian Cameron could probably tell you all you wanted to know about chinook tackle. The list goes on and on.

Does it really make a difference to your fishing if you don't know a thing about rods, reels, lures, etc.? I am often intimidated by the tackle stores. They leech onto you and spout all the rod and reel specificaitons and lingo. I just don't know what it has to do with catching fish.

<8885>
Rebecca, I knwo absolutley •••• all about reels and rods. I was using a trolling rod for a bit when my main one broke. I know a quantum ironman works great and that is the only real that I use. Cathcing fish means putting time onthe water and nothing else. I use fairly cheap gear and still catch fish. Tackle doesn't make the angler.

Ian

<8887>
Amen to that Ian!
My rod of choice: A 6' Ugly Stik
Reel: Mitchell 300 Series (best spinning reel ever built!)
Line: 8 to 30 Lb (Fresh and Saltwater respectively)

Fly gear
Rod: 8' whatever #6 and #8
Line: Cortland (don't be cheap with fly line)
Leader: Homemade 12 lb butt with 4 lb tippet

Whatever works for you, Rebecca...that is what's "BEST". I dropped a lot of names only to give you an idea...buying trendy or name-brand stuff won't make you a great fisherperson if you don't know what you're doing, right?

*

<8889>
Rebecca, I use whatever is available or left for me after others have beat me to the gear. It is amazing what you can catch fish with. I have caught more fish and had more fun since I stopped using what every man walking by suggested that I use. I was fly fishing in a little river and a man walked up to me and asked to see what I was using. He then proceeded to cut my fly off and tied on one of his flies. I was in shock when he did this. He told me that I would catch lots of fish with this fly. I didn't catch any fish that afternoon and eventually lost the fly in some overhanging bushes.

<8892>
I will say this. It makes a difference to some extent.

<8902>
Ive fished both cheap and expensive, and all that "expensive" does is improves the experiance a bit. There is a sliding scale it seems with rod & reels. The first entry level rods are cheap and cumbersome and usually a waste of the $50.00 or so they cost. The next "middle of the road" outfits are usually in the 75-150 $ range and are more than adequate for 90% of the population. The difference between these rods and the entry level rods is large. As you go up from here you pay a lot for small improvements in performance. The differance between a $100.00 shimano, and a $500.00 loomis or sage or whatever, is evident, but @ 5 times the price it isnt going to catch you 5x the fish or improve your experiance by 5x either. Reels are similar in the sliding scale they are on also. What I would say though is buy the best line, and hooks that you can afford as this will improve your experiance and catch rate. Now I know the sage owners will trash this post, but this is my experiance, and you will find me using Middle of the road equipment most of the time. I do own some expensive stuff (flyrods & reels) but 90 % of my gear is Middle of the road stuff. Nothing worse than leaving a 1000.00 worth of rod and reel on your roof and driving off :((

<8903>
If you have a cheap fly rod and a decent one you'll know the difference at the end of the day. I find that cheap fly rods don't load up nearly as well, also they aren't nearly as sensitive, + your arm might be a little bit more sore at the end of the day. Even a hardwood handle compared to a cork handle makes a big difference I find. I'm not saying that if you buy an expensive rod things are gonna be great, (there are definitely some rods that are way over-rated), but go out and try a bunch before you pick one. I own a sage and a dragonfly. Sometimes I'll fish both at the same time, but if something's hot I'll go as far as to change whatever line I have onto the sage because I really don't like the feel of the dragonfly. And yes I think I do catch more fish on the sage, especially when fishing chronomids.

<8908>
Well, for ocean salmon fishing, Im using a 30year old Becher Bay Salmno Reel. This thign is so corroded, big, and old that its very awkward. But hey, I still catch fish! The new black centerpin reels reel great, are smaller, and manage much better.

Most gear price makes the experience better as somebody said previously.

Chris

<8910>
I Have to agree I have more fun catching coho on my trout rod/coffee grinder setup with a spoon then the guys who go fishless with their $500+ outfits. I might by a good flyrod over the winter but only cause lost my old 6 weight. I'll find something under $150 and no it won't have a warranty but do i really need a warranty to replace a tip or an eye? It's not brain surgery and if the rod snaps (never snapped a fly rod yet) i'll buy a new one. Unless I'm given something as a xmas present or maybe if i get into drift fishing i can't see a reason to spend much money on fishing equipment.

<8913>
Whenever you are river fishing, its nice to have rod with a fairly sensitive end. It makes a big difference when the fish are taking lightly.
However, you don't need a $500 sage rod for any type of fishing. It won't make a big enough difference(if any) to justify the outrageous price.

<8931>
I have never spent more than $100 on my fly rods and reels, and I do quite well with those I use. The way I look at it, if I can catch as many fish with a cheap rod, what's the point in mortaging a more expensive rod?

I am currently using a 4 piece #6 DragonFly rod with a DragonFly Cartridge 375 reel. Babcock sells these rods for about $140 ($100 on sale) and they come with a nice nylon carrying case. I have had plenty of action on these rods and they are much better than the $50-$80 rods, being much more flexible and a lot more sensitive, especially now that they have switched blanks in the new rods. Now, I'm sure a $500 Sage is going to feel a lot lighter and much more sensitive again, but really, who wants to spend that kind of money? And I HAVE snapped my fly rod before. (I once had my rod slip out of my arm as I had it cradled to change a fly. I was standing in a boat in Indian Arm and it was about to slip into the deep blue. I quickly grabbed for it and caught the tip section. I saved the rod but lost 3 inches of the tip.) Accidents happen, and when they do its nice to be able to replace a section of the rod for $30, not $300.

The DragonFly Cartridge reel goes for about $80, and $22 per extra spool. I am very happy with the reel so far, but we'll have to see how long it's drag system lasts. I am more inclined to spend the extra money on good reels, as they do have moving parts, and cheap reels are not going to last a lifetime. However, since I am not a rich man I have to buy what I can afford, and right now this reel seems the best for the money.

<8933>
To take that a bit farther, I like spending my money on good fly lines. Mind you, I'd like to have a nice fly rod, but that money can be better spent right now.

<8934>
oh ya i lied i did break the tip of one of my flyrods not on a fish though. Unforunately i lost both my rods this summer so I have to buy a new one or maybe 2. Right before I lost them had them spooled with that cortland clear line which was a bit pricey but really good and i'll probably buy it again.

<8935>
"I bet that Scott Kirkpatrick could tell you everything you wanted to know about Sage rods."

Rebecca, I will tell you this. I can tell you
everything you need to know about the Sage rods
I own and why I picked them. AS for everything
about Sage rods, well, ask them here. www.sageflyfish.com

"Ian Cameron could probably tell you all you wanted to know about chinook tackle. The list goes on and on."

No comment, but I'm sure theres people who would love to comment on that particular issue.

"Does it really make a difference to your fishing if you don't know a thing about rods, reels, lures, etc.?"

You can go two ways with what you just said Rebecca. People are taking it as "expensive verus
cheap gear and everything in between," and the way I took it was you were talking about particular lures and particular specs of sizes of rods, lures, pound tests, and numbers, not brand names.

"I am often intimidated by the tackle stores."

There are some tackle stores out there that are there to leech money off of you, but I will say this. If they do that, you will find out later on
fast. I generally have always received really good advice or advice that is deemed the best that the particular individual could offer you at the time. Why would a tackle store lie to you or do anything to you to prevent you from not catching fish or helping you have success? People fishing is what keeps them in business so they will push for success for all people who they sell things to. If you would like recommendations of a few good tackle stores to go to, I will recommend them. I know some really good people who would spend the time with you to help you out.

"They leech onto you and spout all the rod and reel specificaitons and lingo."

Go to a different tackle store. Or tell them you're fishing challenged. Be honest and upfront and let them know you're still into the basics.
Thats the best thing you can do. Michael and Young flyshop when they first started out, at the risk of not intimidating new fly anglers had a sign up that said somethng to the effect of "there is no such thing as a dumb question."
I know at this particular tackle store (M and Y)
I have learned A great deal about fly fishing and
the particulars and it has helped me out big time.

"I just don't know what it has to do with catching fish."

So you are implying that do specs and rod and
reels have to do with catching fish.
Well I will say this. Having the right tool for the right job can make things easier. For instance when float fishing a 10 1/2 foot rod
baitcasting/centerpin rod/reel when mastered
will probably make a more comforatable performance and offere more advantages than
using your 7 foot spinning rod you use for trout.
This is just for the particular application.

Rebecca, I would like you to further your frustrations for the rest of the board to help you out with. Be more specific, are you frustrated with expensive rods and you have to buy them to have this and this, or are you frustrated with all the specs such as you need
an 11 foot rod for this and a 9 foot noodle rod
for this and this for this, etc.

As for the argument of cheap verus expensive and everything in between, well that is up to the particular user. I am a big fan of lifetime warranties, therefore the rods I pay for cost a bit more money than most which is understandable.
Usually the rods with Lifetime warranties offer quite a few performance advantages as well, so you benefit two fold in most instances, but again, the price is the issue.

<8936>
Rebecca, When I was a kid I can remeber camping at Lightning Lakes in Manning Park. I fished at a culvert that dribbled into the lake with 12 feet of line with a hook tied on the end with a small piece of bread squeezed on to it. I still remeber the entire morning with great fondness and even though I wouldn't be caught dead fishing with a chunk of line by hand and a piece of bread now it was still a great time for a 6 year old. The point I'm making is that the gear is half the puzzle...you're fishing prowess is the other. I'm no expert on anything but I've always bought the best I can afford and every year I try to add a new piece to the puzzle. Most of the guys on this board own many different rods and reels for all kinds of fishing and I bet we all still buy something "new" every year. Start with what you can afford at the time and get out and have some fun !

<8937>
Rebecca, I usualy pay $80.00 sale price for any rod or reel for anybody after the age of 15. For 9 year olds I would pay $40.00 for each and for under 9 I buy the whole shot usually in a kit for 40.00. I have no desire to become a mechanic. Just like cars I expect it to work and when it doesn't it gets replaced. Keep it affordable, then you have money left over for all the other paraphenalia that goes with fishing. Such as Waders-$199, Boots-$79, Fly Line-$59.00, Belly boat-$169.00, Flippers-$40.00, Vest- I found one for $30.00 but usualy much more. Lures $3.00-$6.00 each, Flies-89 cents and up. There is more to be bought but this is just a start.

<8941>
rebecca - buy from a tackle dealer who will
let you test the equipment out for a day or so - preferably in a typical fishing situation you experience. (they may ask for a deposit or a credit card imprint - that's fair).Set a budget before you go - ie "I want to spend about $200 for rod and reel".

Remember that good tackle is designed that way - it's not paid for.

<8943>
I went through a a sage "phase". Starting around 10 years ago, I was absolutely enthralled with sage rods. I built half a dozen of them (Fly, bait etc). All that care and attention, lathed handles etc. Currently, all except one of them is broken. I realise that they have a lifetime warranty--just all the work to rebuild them, I have yet to do it, maybe this winter. Most of the breakages come from carelessness, one I must have put small crack in it because it broke on a pink salmon in the eve river. The moral of the story, is that it really hurts when you break an expensive rod. Because I know that I am a rodbreaker (I step on them, put them in car doors etc, and bushwack along riverbanks) I don't fish expensive rods anymore, I have been using reasonably priced St croix rods for flyfishing and for river gear I use an older loomis and an off the rack "Trophy" both cheap compared to the Sage. I am to the point where I don't really care about the subtle differences that really good rods make--it doesn't affect my level of enjoyment.
Bert

<8944>
I have to agree with some of the other posts that suggest getting the best you can afford, and simply getting out there. I personally have used just about everything from $6 ice fishing rods we used to sneak into a private 'community lake' in Calgary, to $700 fly fishing rods. I would argue that when it comes to fly fishing, there is a noticeable difference in the feel and performance of a better quality rod (not necessarily more expensive though). When it comes down to the question of catching fish, it has much more to do with practice, and less to do with equipment. In the long run, you should expect better durability and overall quality with better equipment. If I could offer only one last piece of advice, it would be to get to know some of the people working for the different stores in your area. I have found many who are willing to share their knowledge regardless of whether it makes a sale or not. Also, you may wish to contact fishing clubs who would most likely dispense some unbiased advice of their own. When it comes down to it though, spend less time on the computer, and more time on the water!
Cheers,
Mark

<8947>
This past June I learned a prime reason not to invest too much dear $ in a piece of fishing tackle when a 3lb trout pulled my $500 plus outfit right out of the boat! I jumped in after it and knocked my other similarly priced set out of the boat into the drink as well. Fortunately I was able to retrieve both. My young son landed the fish on the one line but then I couldn't get back into the boat! Some one came to my assistance and we headed for the dock.

In hindsight I realize in different circumstances (colder water and weather, no company or nearby anglers) I could have lost much more. If I had cheaper tackle I may have stayed in the boat and simply lost an evenings fishing.

<8968>
I believe that the reel is where you should put most of your budget money. A friend just bought his first baitcaster outfit 3 months ago. In his last fishing trip during the chum run at the Vedder, his reel failed after attempting to break-off a snag. He brought it back to his dealer and they made him pay for repairs. Cheap internals in a reel will not last with regular use.

<8969>
Steven,
That sucks! You do have a point. Just out of curiosity, what kind of gear did he buy and for how much? My daughters little reel (whole package $40)broke after my chum was caught on it and my sons reel ($40.00 reel only) broke after a salmon. But I find that reels that are on sale and bought for around $80.00 seem to work just fine.

<8970>
The reel was a Diawa Millionaire II (2). His rod-reel combo cost ~$150. He was informed the reel would cost ~$80 on it's own. His repair cost $10, even thought it broke on his third fishing trip. Lastly, he was informed upon his return, that the reel was discontinued; that's probably why it was packaged with the rod.

<8971>
I know I'm jumping in late here, but I beleive that a good reel(drift reel) is more important than a expensive rod. The value of your gear will not determine your success on the water, although it might make it more enjoyable. I bought a Sage 3106 and that rod, although way out of my broke ass budget, has been worth every penny. If your on the water a lot, $375 is not that much to spend on a rod, especially if you can squeeze 10+ years out of it. As for levelwind reels, the more you spend, the smoother drag you get. The smoother the drag, the less fish broken off. As for fly rods, i fish a Fenwick that cost me $175 and 50$ dragonfly cartridge and I like that rod better than a Sage 896 that Berry's built for me. That Sage 8wt was a piece of crap.

<8985>
I'd way rather have a good fly rod than a good fly reel. When I buy a fly reel I look for one with a simple drag system. Teeth on the back of the spool and metal springs for resistance. Before I start casting I spool out as much line as I need, and if I hook into a big fish then I just palm it. As long as I can spool line onto it, and the drag works steadily I don't care. Two of my reels don't even have an adjustable drag, but it makes no difference. Infact some of the expensive reels I dislike compared to a cheaper reel. Eg., the STH, it's the heaviest piece of junk I've ever tried. I'd much rather have a dragonfly. As for line I really don't mind all that much as long as it has the taper I'm looking for, or the sink rate, or that if it's a floating line that floats who cares. I'm a little bit more pickier about my leader and tippet though. When it comes down to it I'd rather have a good rod than a bad rod simply because I catch more fish on a rod that's sensitive and has a good feel to it, than some noodle rod.

<8989>
that's a click and pawl drag Jesse.

They've been catching big fish for over a century
on that system.

<9021>
Thanks for the info guys. Glad to see I can still draw a little attention.

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